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November 2024 Update:
Top of the news - Tom's Letter
Letter from Tom

We are in the final stages of planning for this year's cookbook social (12/01/08) and in doing so I began reminiscing about recent cookbook finds and spectacular dining experiences.  Having a radio show every Saturday (KIRO 97.3 FM) helps me keep in touch with what's happening in the book world and my travels certainly give me ample opportunity to try some of the best restaurants in the world.

My personal trend in book buying seems to be careening towards cook "lit" plus recipes.  I think this is because I'm not satisfied with just a recipe anymore.  Just like the food on my table, I am interested in the background details.  A good example is "Milk" by Ann Mendelson.  Surely a common food by any standard and ubiquitous in its availability from gas stations to PCC, yet stunningly rich in history, lore and taste.  "Milk" is a great read cover to cover and with 125 recipes you don't get left hanging wondering what to do with all this new information.  Just jump into the kitchen and make some fresh ricotta or Chinese fried milk cakes.  Yum!

An old fave that I keep buying used copies of on E-bay for gifts is "Blue Trout and Black Truffles" by Joseph Wechsberg.  Mostly this is a compilation of magazine articles written in the 40's and 50's for The Atlantic, Gourmet, The New Yorker and others.  I am charmed by the musings of this young foodie discovering his palate taste by taste, and where it was derived from ethnically.

A book that I have cooked at least a half dozen recipes out of, including a delicious pot roast of veal with anchovy caper sauce and chili spiked lamb pie, is "Cucina Del Sole" by Nancy Harmon Jenkins.  I am not nearly as familiar with Southern Italian cooking as the North, and Nancy provides great head notes and good travel suggestions if you're in the area.

One book that covers a topic in this very green and sustainable world we all need to move towards is "Chefs on the Farm" by Shannon Borg and Lora Lea Misterly.  Self described as recipes and inspirations from the Quillisascut Farm School in Rice, Washington.  I think it hits the nail on the head.  For years we have bought their delicious cheeses to serve on our menus but they have really flourished since starting their school.  The cooks and waiters that have won scholarships to attend from our company, come back changed people full of back to the land gospel and where does my food come from vigor.

One last find from the fabulous Barbara Jo's Books for Cooks in Vancouver BC is "Botanical" by Paul Wilson from Australia.  I am smitten with the Aussie style fusion cooking with simplicity and clear focus.  Usually those don't go together, but check out Donna Hay's books or this coffee table stunner.

Now for some restaurants that you must try before you have no money left in your 401k.  Best meals of the year for me in the states….

Osteria Mozza in LA.  Nancy Silverton and Mario Batali have teamed up to create delicious combination pizzeria, mozzarella bar and trattoria that I think is the best Italian food I've had outside of Italy.  Real food by great chefs.  I'd tell you what to try but it was all good.  If you can snag a seat at the Mozza bar when Nancy is doing the cooking, it is a real treat.

Dell'anima in Manhattan is a terrific ripoff of Babbo restaurant by a couple of alums but I still loved it.  It's much easier to get into with a 6 seat counter staring directly on to the hot cooking line of the kitchen.  I still learn something every time I watch a cook cook.  Sometimes it's what not to do, but usually I come away richer from the experience.

And one sad note on the passing of Beato, in West Seattle:  With the best Italian wine list in town, quite tasty food, quaint setting, a hands on owner, and what everybody seems to want, I don't know what went wrong.  I do know that small joints like that are the backbone and vitality of a great restaurant town and I hate to see them go!


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Until next time...
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